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When setting up a hamster's cage, there are a number of things to look out for as regards safety. There is also a post on unsafe toys and items but general set up needs to be considered for safety too.
Hamsters can be very active in their cages - especially at night (when they might monkey bar across the roof of a barred cage and you don't see it!)
So a few things to check, avoid and look out for
1) Fall risks
If they happened to drop from the roof, how far could they fall and could they land on anything hard or sharp (which may cause injury)? The key there is to make sure there is enough substrate to cushion any falls, and have any hard or sharp items under something (eg on or under a shelf or under a hanging item).
2) Splinters and other sharp hazards
Check wood items for the cage for splinters, protruding nails or visible glue. When you have a hamster, keeping a piece of sandpaper in the house helps! Or an emery board if you don't have diy items. Sandpaper is much easier and quicker to use though.
3) Chains
It is best not to use chains. Some hanging toys come with chains. A hamster jumping from a hanging item could get a foot or toenail caught in the chain rings as they jump off, and end up hanging from it by a leg. This has been known to lead to a hamster with a broken leg or other injury. You can replace the chains with something else quite easily usually. Sisal string or rope can be used for hanging things or tying tubes to the bars (not cotton string). Or plastic cable ties could be used to attach internal tubes to bars. Check things are attached securely though, so no gaps a foot or toe could get caught in.
4) Gaps
Gaps in bendy stick bridges or where ladders attach to shelves can also be a place where a foot or toe can get caught.
5) Secure fixing
Ladders or ramps, if not secured or intended for a particular shelf, can fall down when the hamster is using them. So having them fixed securely is important for safety. If a ladder won't fit securely, it's better to use some other kind of shelf access that's stable. Eg a tube attached to the bars leading up to the shelf, or a large cork log next to or partly under a shelf, can make a route up to the shelf.
6) Ladders with rungs and gaps
Ladders with rungs and gaps can cause accidents too. Hamsters can fall partly between the rungs or gaps and get injured or just get stressed trying to get up the ladder. If you have a ladder with rungs or gaps it's easy enough to adapt it by glueing a piece of wood (or even cardboard) to the back of it - so there are no gaps. Basically, solid surfaces are best for hamsters feet - for ladders and wheel surfaces.
7) Access to water and water risks
Water bottles need to be checked daily to ensure they are actually letting water out. Tapping a finger under the spout is all that's needed. Water bottles need to be secured at the right height for the hamster. If it's too low they have to contort themselves to drink. If it's too high, they can't reach it. If using a water bowl it should be small and shallow and placed in an area where it can't get contamined with bedding etc (eg on a shelf). The water should be changed daily and the bowl checked regularly to ensure there is water in it. A bowl shouldn't be too big or deep to avoid a wet hamster - hamsters can get chilled if they get too wet.
8) Mesh surfaces
Mesh or grid shelves are not safe to use as they can cause a condition called bumblefoot in hamsters. If you do have a mesh or grid shelf and can't replace it for some reason, then covering it with either a piece of wood or cardboard, or possibly hemp mat or grass/chew mats will give a suitable surface to walk on but it needs to be something firm. Likewise wheels with mesh or grid surfaces are bad for hamsters.
9) Issues with fabric items
Fabric material in cages is a hazard. If a hamster chews fabric it can get loose threads wrapped around a leg - cutting off the circulation - hamsters have been known to amputate their own foot or leg if trapped by tight threads around the foot. Threads can also get wrapped round teeth. They could also pouch or swallow the material and get a digestive blockage. This includes fabric nests or beds which can have polyester filling inside which is harmful if swallowed. A hamster's instinct is to try and forage for and pouch anything nice and soft - to take to their nest, hence there's a danger it could get in the digestive system. Fleece is not as bad as standard fabric as it's not made up of threads. But generally it's advisable not to use fleece hammocks unless you are sure your hamster isn't going to attempt to chew it. Even then there is usually some stitching on fleece hammocks which could have loose threads and some have polyester wadding inside. Better not to use them or use them rarely or cautiously (eg with an older hamster who you know won't chew it). Cosy fleece hides can be used for out of cage time instead, with observation.
10) Supporting heavy items
Heavy items on top of the substrate can sink if a hamster digs or tunnels under them and could injure the hamster if the weight comes down on them. eg heavier larger ceramic items or larger wood houses. So these need supporting underneath. They can either be on a shelf or platform, or, in the case of a large house, you can glue legs/stilts onto the house using wood dowels. Some houses come with attachable legs.
11) No Fluffy bedding
There is a separate thread on the topic of fluffy bedding which is sold as soft nesting material and isn't safe. This is known to get pouched and swallowed and cause digestive blockages - often needing surgery or leading to death.
12) Only use pet safe glues
If you make any items for the cage then safe glue is needed. Elmer's school glue is safe for general use. Ponal is a safe wood glue (and virtually odourless). Some members have made their own natural flour and water type glues for lighter use. Even though these glues are safe once dry, it's still important not to have any visible glue that could be chewed or eaten.
13) No scented items
Hamsters have very sensitive respiratory tracts and a much stronger sense of smell than we do. Scented bedding or granules or cage cleaning materials can affect their breathing or general wellbeing and also cause them stress (what might smell nice to us can be overpowering for them). So scented substrate shouldn't be used. For cage cleaning, soapy water is fine (eg dishwashing liquid in water) and even then it needs rinsing off well. If a cage needs to disinfected, usually only necessary if there is illness or disease or using a cage for a different hamster, use a suitable disinfectant like Johnsons or Beaphar for small animals, which don't have a strong scent, and again rinse it off well to remove any residue and lessen the scent.
14) Only use pet safe waterproofing paints
If painting wood cages to seal or waterproof them or any other wood items, there are limited products which are petsafe. Standard varnish shouldn't be used. It needs to be water based and non toxic. The most commonly used one, which is tried and tested is Plastikote enamel water based waterproofing paint, which comes in small pots. This is ok for smaller items but it can take a few pots for larger items. There is also an Auro one sold by Rodipet. Not all paints that say they are non toxic are safe for hamsters.
15) Safe substrates
Ensure any substrate (aka litter/bedding) is a suitable material. Pine and softwood shavings are not safe in many countries due to the high levels of phenols which are harmful to hamsters in a number of ways. In the Uk, all softwood shavings have to be kiln dried and dust extracted by law - however this does not remove all the phenols and there is no clear guide or legislation as to what degree of kiln drying has been done. There are many other safe and alternative substrates to use, some of which can be bought in bulk and work out just as economical. Such as recycled paper bedding (Fitch), Hemp bedding (Aubiose, Hugro Hemp), Kaytee Clean n Cozy, Megazorb. Some people feel concerned about a bedding being able to reduce odours - but if a litter tray and sand bath are used this isn't an issue - the litter tray can soak up the pee and be emptied regularly. Only unscented substrates should be used.
If anyone can think of anything else, please add!
Hamsters can be very active in their cages - especially at night (when they might monkey bar across the roof of a barred cage and you don't see it!)
So a few things to check, avoid and look out for
1) Fall risks
If they happened to drop from the roof, how far could they fall and could they land on anything hard or sharp (which may cause injury)? The key there is to make sure there is enough substrate to cushion any falls, and have any hard or sharp items under something (eg on or under a shelf or under a hanging item).
2) Splinters and other sharp hazards
Check wood items for the cage for splinters, protruding nails or visible glue. When you have a hamster, keeping a piece of sandpaper in the house helps! Or an emery board if you don't have diy items. Sandpaper is much easier and quicker to use though.
3) Chains
It is best not to use chains. Some hanging toys come with chains. A hamster jumping from a hanging item could get a foot or toenail caught in the chain rings as they jump off, and end up hanging from it by a leg. This has been known to lead to a hamster with a broken leg or other injury. You can replace the chains with something else quite easily usually. Sisal string or rope can be used for hanging things or tying tubes to the bars (not cotton string). Or plastic cable ties could be used to attach internal tubes to bars. Check things are attached securely though, so no gaps a foot or toe could get caught in.
4) Gaps
Gaps in bendy stick bridges or where ladders attach to shelves can also be a place where a foot or toe can get caught.
5) Secure fixing
Ladders or ramps, if not secured or intended for a particular shelf, can fall down when the hamster is using them. So having them fixed securely is important for safety. If a ladder won't fit securely, it's better to use some other kind of shelf access that's stable. Eg a tube attached to the bars leading up to the shelf, or a large cork log next to or partly under a shelf, can make a route up to the shelf.
6) Ladders with rungs and gaps
Ladders with rungs and gaps can cause accidents too. Hamsters can fall partly between the rungs or gaps and get injured or just get stressed trying to get up the ladder. If you have a ladder with rungs or gaps it's easy enough to adapt it by glueing a piece of wood (or even cardboard) to the back of it - so there are no gaps. Basically, solid surfaces are best for hamsters feet - for ladders and wheel surfaces.
7) Access to water and water risks
Water bottles need to be checked daily to ensure they are actually letting water out. Tapping a finger under the spout is all that's needed. Water bottles need to be secured at the right height for the hamster. If it's too low they have to contort themselves to drink. If it's too high, they can't reach it. If using a water bowl it should be small and shallow and placed in an area where it can't get contamined with bedding etc (eg on a shelf). The water should be changed daily and the bowl checked regularly to ensure there is water in it. A bowl shouldn't be too big or deep to avoid a wet hamster - hamsters can get chilled if they get too wet.
8) Mesh surfaces
Mesh or grid shelves are not safe to use as they can cause a condition called bumblefoot in hamsters. If you do have a mesh or grid shelf and can't replace it for some reason, then covering it with either a piece of wood or cardboard, or possibly hemp mat or grass/chew mats will give a suitable surface to walk on but it needs to be something firm. Likewise wheels with mesh or grid surfaces are bad for hamsters.
9) Issues with fabric items
Fabric material in cages is a hazard. If a hamster chews fabric it can get loose threads wrapped around a leg - cutting off the circulation - hamsters have been known to amputate their own foot or leg if trapped by tight threads around the foot. Threads can also get wrapped round teeth. They could also pouch or swallow the material and get a digestive blockage. This includes fabric nests or beds which can have polyester filling inside which is harmful if swallowed. A hamster's instinct is to try and forage for and pouch anything nice and soft - to take to their nest, hence there's a danger it could get in the digestive system. Fleece is not as bad as standard fabric as it's not made up of threads. But generally it's advisable not to use fleece hammocks unless you are sure your hamster isn't going to attempt to chew it. Even then there is usually some stitching on fleece hammocks which could have loose threads and some have polyester wadding inside. Better not to use them or use them rarely or cautiously (eg with an older hamster who you know won't chew it). Cosy fleece hides can be used for out of cage time instead, with observation.
10) Supporting heavy items
Heavy items on top of the substrate can sink if a hamster digs or tunnels under them and could injure the hamster if the weight comes down on them. eg heavier larger ceramic items or larger wood houses. So these need supporting underneath. They can either be on a shelf or platform, or, in the case of a large house, you can glue legs/stilts onto the house using wood dowels. Some houses come with attachable legs.
11) No Fluffy bedding
There is a separate thread on the topic of fluffy bedding which is sold as soft nesting material and isn't safe. This is known to get pouched and swallowed and cause digestive blockages - often needing surgery or leading to death.
12) Only use pet safe glues
If you make any items for the cage then safe glue is needed. Elmer's school glue is safe for general use. Ponal is a safe wood glue (and virtually odourless). Some members have made their own natural flour and water type glues for lighter use. Even though these glues are safe once dry, it's still important not to have any visible glue that could be chewed or eaten.
13) No scented items
Hamsters have very sensitive respiratory tracts and a much stronger sense of smell than we do. Scented bedding or granules or cage cleaning materials can affect their breathing or general wellbeing and also cause them stress (what might smell nice to us can be overpowering for them). So scented substrate shouldn't be used. For cage cleaning, soapy water is fine (eg dishwashing liquid in water) and even then it needs rinsing off well. If a cage needs to disinfected, usually only necessary if there is illness or disease or using a cage for a different hamster, use a suitable disinfectant like Johnsons or Beaphar for small animals, which don't have a strong scent, and again rinse it off well to remove any residue and lessen the scent.
14) Only use pet safe waterproofing paints
If painting wood cages to seal or waterproof them or any other wood items, there are limited products which are petsafe. Standard varnish shouldn't be used. It needs to be water based and non toxic. The most commonly used one, which is tried and tested is Plastikote enamel water based waterproofing paint, which comes in small pots. This is ok for smaller items but it can take a few pots for larger items. There is also an Auro one sold by Rodipet. Not all paints that say they are non toxic are safe for hamsters.
15) Safe substrates
Ensure any substrate (aka litter/bedding) is a suitable material. Pine and softwood shavings are not safe in many countries due to the high levels of phenols which are harmful to hamsters in a number of ways. In the Uk, all softwood shavings have to be kiln dried and dust extracted by law - however this does not remove all the phenols and there is no clear guide or legislation as to what degree of kiln drying has been done. There are many other safe and alternative substrates to use, some of which can be bought in bulk and work out just as economical. Such as recycled paper bedding (Fitch), Hemp bedding (Aubiose, Hugro Hemp), Kaytee Clean n Cozy, Megazorb. Some people feel concerned about a bedding being able to reduce odours - but if a litter tray and sand bath are used this isn't an issue - the litter tray can soak up the pee and be emptied regularly. Only unscented substrates should be used.
If anyone can think of anything else, please add!
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. It seems to be safe for dogs as dog chews can be made of it so I would think that is ok.